Successfully cultivating peonies in the Deep South can be a challenge, but if you’re determined to introduce these majestic blooms to your garden, autumn is the ideal planting season. The cooler temperatures facilitate their acclimatization and the development of robust root systems before the intense summer heat arrives. Discover the optimal planting times for peonies and the most suitable types for Southern gardens.
Peonies thrive predominantly in cooler climates across the Upper and Middle South. Nonetheless, even residents of Mississippi or southern Georgia can cultivate certain varieties to enjoy their beauty.
Herbaceous peonies are resilient perennials that emerge in the spring and shed their foliage to the ground by late autumn. They predominantly hail from Asia and are descended from Paeonia lactiflora. These peonies can be showcased as standalone plants or in groups, and they make outstanding cut flowers. Many garden varieties struggle with excessive heat and humidity, particularly during their blooming period. For those in warmer climates, opting for early-blooming varieties is advisable.
Here are some recommended varieties for Southern gardens:
- Festiva Maxima (Paeonia lactiflora ‘Festiva Maxima’): A highly aromatic early-bloomer with double, pristine white petals adorned with striking crimson spots on a few central petals. It retains its beauty after cutting.
- Sarah Bernhardt (Paeonia lactiflora ‘Sarah Bernhardt’): A later-season bloomer featuring dark rose-pink double flowers. The flower heads are substantial and may need support in the garden.
- Kansas (Paeonia lactiflora ‘Kansas’): A fragrant, early to mid-season bloomer with vivid, clear red double flowers. This reliable bloomer maintains its color throughout the season.
- Shirley Temple (Paeonia lactiflora ‘Shirley Temple’): An early bloomer with double light rose blooms that transition to white. The blooms are exceptionally large, reaching 8 inches in diameter.
Tree peonies, also herbaceous peonies derived from Paeonia lactiflora but categorized as Paeonia x suffruticosa, present as upright, coarsely branched flowering deciduous shrubs that can grow up to 6.5 feet tall. They bloom from mid-spring to late spring, with a mature tree peony capable of producing 75 to 100 large blooms over a two-month period. These peonies can be difficult to grow in warmer regions due to their need for a winter chilling period to reliably bloom in spring.
Here are some recommended varieties for Southern gardens:
- Rimpo (Paeonia suffruticosa ‘Rimpo Peony’): Its red or purple-black double petals encircle golden stamens. This peony blooms from late spring to early summer and can reach a height and width of 7 feet.
- Shima Nishiki (Paeonia suffruticosa ‘Shima Nishiki’): This plant can produce red or white flowers, but most are red and white striped. A smaller tree peony, it reaches only 3 to 4 feet and features blooms that are 6 to 8 inches in diameter.
- Cup of Shining Night (Paeonia suffruticosa ‘Cup of Shining Night’): Growing up to 6 feet in height and width, it produces semi-double dark red or maroon blooms with dark flares. Its sturdy stems create a spacious, airy plant.
Itoh peonies, or intersectional peonies (Paeonia x Itoh Series), are crosses between herbaceous peonies and tree peonies. They are more heat and humidity tolerant than herbaceous hybrids and thrive in USDA hardiness zones 6-9. Itoh peonies produce long-lasting blooms that can reach 8 inches in diameter on robust stems. The plants die back to the ground in winter but emerge with lush, dark green foliage and a plethora of yellow, coral, pink, red, or white blooms over a six-week span.
Here are some recommended varieties for Southern gardens:
- Bartzella (Paeonia (Intersectional hybrid) x ‘Bartzella’): Boasting large, bright yellow double blossoms with a subtle red center stain and a hint of spiciness. At maturity, the plant reaches 3 feet in height.
- Keiko (Paeonia (Intersectional hybrid) x ‘Keiko’): It produces large, semi-double to double, lightly fragrant flowers on strong stems above a compact mound of dark green foliage. The petals mature from dark lavender-pink to soft pink, revealing a cluster of yellow stamens in the center.
- White Emperor (Paeonia (Intersectional hybrid) x ‘White Emperor’): Growing to 24-36 inches tall at maturity, it produces semi-double white flowers with light purple flares and blooms early in the season.
For the best results, wait to plant peonies until soil temperatures consistently drop below 50 degrees. The cooler temperatures induce full dormancy in the plant and reset the growth buds. In the Upper South, plant them in October before the ground freezes. Gardeners in the Middle and Lower South have a bit more flexibility and can plant through November and into early December.
Given that temperature is a key factor, select a planting location that receives full morning sun and dappled afternoon shade to help maintain cooler soil temperatures. Since peonies do not appreciate being transplanted, choose a site where they can establish themselves for at least 3 to 4 years.
Peonies thrive in fertile soil rich in organic matter. If you have clay soil, incorporate ample compost to enhance drainage. It’s essential to test the soil, as peonies prefer a neutral pH but can tolerate slight acidity.
- Most peonies are sold bare-root. Once the soil has been amended, use a garden spade to dig a shallow hole. If the peony is in a container, the hole should not be deeper than the container.
- Position the roots with their buds or eyes just 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. In warmer zones, they can be planted even more shallowly, around 1/2 to 1 inch below the soil surface. Planting too deeply can reduce the number of blooms.
- Space the plants approximately 24 inches apart to ensure adequate airflow when the foliage appears in spring.
- Cover the roots with soil, water thoroughly, and add about two inches of mulch.
- Continue watering every 10 days unless there is sufficient rainfall to help the plant establish deep roots.
Newly planted or transplanted peonies may not bloom until their third year. They prefer to take their time to acclimate, endure a couple of chilling winters, and test your patience before they are ready to showcase their splendor.
Peonies require the most moisture in spring as they emerge from dormancy and again in fall as they prepare for next year’s buds. The soil should remain evenly moist with about one inch of water per week from rainfall and/or irrigation.
After the blooming period, apply a low-nitrogen fertilizer and again in late summer around the dripline of the plants if you notice a decline in flower production. If you’ve planted them in fertile soil and mulched with compost, they may not require any fertilization.
Deadhead spent blooms by cutting the flower stalks down to just above a strong leaf. In colder climates, foliage naturally dies back each fall, but in the Lower South, you may need to assist in forcing peonies into dormancy. Cut all types of peonies back to the ground in November.
- Botrytis blight and mildew can be problematic for peonies due to the heat and humidity in the South. If you notice diseased or wilted stems, remove them promptly to prevent the spread. Dispose of the stems in a plastic bag in the trash. If the issues persist, use a weekly spray of fungicide following the product instructions. Always clean up the peony beds thoroughly in the fall to help prevent reinfection next year.
- Pests such as thrips, mealybugs, and beetles can be managed with neem oil or organic pesticides. Ants that are attracted to the nectar of peony blooms can be a bit pesky but are harmless.
- For taller varieties, consider staking them to protect them from strong winds. In colder zones, mulch the garden bed well to prevent roots from freezing.
- If your peonies are not flourishing after a few years, consider digging them up in the fall and replanting to ensure the roots are not too deep, or moving them to a different location.
- Avoid cutting too many flowers from each plant for indoor arrangements, as this can reduce the number of blooms for the following year.
