Morgan Hunt Ward, Prop Stylist: Priscilla Montiel, Food Stylist: Julian Hensarling
I’m torn on chardonnay. I both detest and cherish it. Unlike many wine types that maintain a consistent profile across different production methods, chardonnay is a chameleon. Depending on the vineyard, it can range from a sleek, zesty, and stone-infused sip with hints of lavender and green apple to a rich, buttery, and oak-scented indulgence. Yet, at another winery, it lands somewhere in between.
This inconsistent flavor journey has earned chardonnay a mixed reputation. To demystify the situation, I spent a leisurely afternoon with Aldo Sohm, the esteemed wine director at the three-Michelin-starred Le Bernardin and the mind behind Wine Simple: Perfect Pairings. Here’s what I gleaned.
Aldo Sohm, Wine Director at Le Bernardin, Co-Owner of Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, and Author of Wine Simple and Wine Simple: Perfect Pairings
Sohm explains that the first element lies in the vineyards themselves. “In hotter climates, grapes have lower acidity and higher sugar content, leading to a higher alcohol content. In cooler regions, the sugars don’t spike as rapidly, resulting in a more acidic juice.”
Another crucial factor is the barrels in which the wine is aged. Oak imparts a vanilla and smoky character, with older oak imparting less of this flavor than its younger counterpart. Chardonnay aged in stainless steel tanks, termed “unoaked,” lacks this entirely.
Chardonnay grapes are the backbone of chardonnay wines, but they also give rise to Chablis, Pouilly Fuissé, Meursault, and white Burgundy. They are also the primary grape in blanc de blancs Champagne. In fact, alongside pinot noir and pinot meunier, chardonnay is a cornerstone of nearly every Champagne bottle. So, if you enjoy Champagne, you’re a fan of chardonnay!
For those who shun chardonnay but love sauvignon blanc, it’s likely just a matter of taste. Introduce them to Chablis, possibly the driest and most mineral-forward wine in the chardonnay family. Chablis hails from the cooler Burgundy region of France, where winemakers craft unoaked or subtly oaked chardonnay. Its slightly briny note pairs beautifully with oysters and light seafood, Sohm asserts. “It’s also a delightful sip on its own.”
For those who eschew chardonnay, try Chablis.
Seek out chardonnays from the Santa Rita Hills or Santa Barbara regions of California, Oregon, Burgundy (excluding Chablis), or Austria. These bottles may carry a subtle hint of oak or vanilla, but the flavors are not overpowering. “These wines are a touch more full-bodied and rounder than Chablis, yet they retain a good level of acidity, making them highly compatible with food,” Sohm notes. They pair well with dishes such as sea bass, scallops, or lobster, offering a robust complement while infusing the glass with a burst of freshness.
Despite my criticism of the traditional creamy chardonnays, many people are smitten with them, and that’s perfectly fine! Often aged in new oak to maximize the oak, toasty, and vanilla flavors, these wines are usually from warmer climates like Napa Valley and the Russian River Valley in California. “You can also find them in Argentina.”
Sohm advises, “It’s beneficial for a wine enthusiast to have a touch of curiosity, to be open to exploration.” This means not dismissing any variety without a try. When shopping, don’t hesitate to seek advice from the staff. If you encounter an unhelpful wine list at a restaurant, ask your server for more information, or even for a taste. Wine is subjective, and if it brings you joy, go for it.
